Oversized soles, black leather, side zips, elongated silhouettes. If you frequent TikTok or Instagram, you know what we're talking about: the Rick Owens aesthetic is everywhere. The problem? A pair of Geobaskets costs over €800, and a pair of DRKSHDW boots easily exceeds €1,200.
The good news is that you can achieve the same dark aesthetic look without emptying your bank account. In this guide, we show you how, with Made in Italy brands that incorporate the key elements of Rick Owens' style at a fraction of the price.
Who is Rick Owens and why is his style everywhere?
Rick Owens is an American designer who has redefined the concept of avant-garde fashion since 1994. Born in Porterville, California, and moved to Paris in 2003, he is known in the fashion world as the "Lord of Darkness" for his unmistakable aesthetic: dark, gothic, brutalist.
His style, which he himself calls "Glunge" (glamour + grunge), is characterized by asymmetrical cuts, draped silhouettes, oversized proportions, and a palette dominated by black, grey, and earthy tones. His footwear has become cult pieces: Geobaskets, Ramones, and boots with zips and massive soles are now instantly recognizable icons.
But Rick Owens is not just a luxury brand: it has become an aesthetic movement. On TikTok, the hashtag #rickowens has hundreds of millions of views, and more and more people are looking for accessible alternatives to enter this stylistic universe.
The 5 elements that define Rick Owens' style
To recreate the look, simply buying "black shoes" isn't enough. Rick Owens' style has precise elements that make it recognizable:
1. Chunky and oversized sole - Thick, voluminous, often with a platform. It's the foundation of everything: it gives presence and aggression to the silhouette. It's not a discreet sole; it's designed to be noticed.
2. Black leather or premium materials - Real leather, suede, velvet. Never cheap synthetics. The material must have weight, texture, and character. Black dominates, but dark brown and grey also find their place.
3. Side zip - Present on almost all boots and many sneakers. It's not just functional: it's a design element that breaks symmetry and adds an industrial detail to the piece.
4. Elongated silhouette - Boots reach above the ankle, sneakers have shapes that lengthen the foot. Nothing compact or "cute": here, proportions are intentionally exaggerated.
5. Monochromatic palette - All black is the rule, not the exception. When there's color, it's tone-on-tone: black on dark grey, brown on black. Zero stark contrasts, zero bright colors.
Accessible alternatives: Jammers London and Censored
At Gagliotta Calzature, we have selected brands that best interpret this aesthetic at prices starting from €99. They are not copies: they are independent brands with their own identity that share the same stylistic DNA as Rick Owens.
Jammers London
Jammers London is a 100% Made in Italy brand that combines craftsmanship and contemporary design. Despite the English name, the footwear is entirely designed and produced in Italy with high-quality materials: real leather, suede, velvet, and canvas.
The models that most closely resemble the Rick Owens aesthetic are:
Tore Total Nero — Black ankle boot with an oversized sole, side zip, and elongated silhouette. It's the most "Rick" piece in the collection: aggressive, dark, with an undeniable presence. Perfect for an all-black look.
Tore Over Nero — Leather version with an even chunkier sole. The side zip with a metallic pull tab and the robust construction directly recall DRKSHDW boots. A statement piece that stylistically competes with footwear five times its price.
Lycra and canvas models — For those who prefer a high-top sneaker in the Ramones style, Jammers offers models with lycra and canvas uppers, thick soles, and high lacing. Lighter than leather boots, but with the same visual impact.
Censored
Censored takes the dark aesthetic to an even more direct level. Boots and ankle boots with heavy construction, prominent zips, treated leather, and platform soles that speak the Rick Owens language without filters. The models available in the collection include variations in eco-leather and alternative materials for those seeking the look with an eye on sustainability.
How to build a complete dark aesthetic outfit
Shoes are the foundation, but the Rick Owens look is built from head to toe. Here are three typical outfits:
Total Black Minimal — Black skinny trousers or tapered joggers + slightly long oversized black t-shirt + Jammers Tore Total Nero ankle boots. No visible logos, no flashy accessories. The strength lies in proportions and materials.
Layered Dark — Black slim jeans + black turtleneck sweater + leather jacket or oversized bomber + Censored boots with zips. Layer upon layer, texture upon texture. The interplay of volumes between tight (bottom) and oversized (top) is the signature of the style.
Streetwear Dark — Black cargo pants + dark grey hoodie + Jammers high-top canvas or lycra sneakers. The most casual and everyday version of the look: comfortable but with attitude. Works for university, going out, for everyday life.
Original Rick Owens vs. alternatives: an honest comparison
Let's be clear: a pair of original Rick Owens has a construction quality and a material research that (partially) justifies the price. Leathers are selected, soles are specifically developed for each model, each piece is a small sculpture.
But for those who want the aesthetic without investing €800-1,200 per pair, Made in Italy alternatives like Jammers London and Censored offer unbeatable value for money. Real leather, Italian production, refined design, at a fifth of the price.
And let's face it: from the street, 3 meters away, the visual impact is the same. The dark aesthetic is communicated through silhouette and mood, not with an internal label.
Why choose alternatives on Gagliotta
At Gagliotta Calzature, you will find the widest selection of dark aesthetic footwear in a single store, with over 50 models of boots, ankle boots, and sneakers in Rick Owens style. All products are original, with fast shipping in 24-48h, returns within 14 days, and the option to pay in 3 interest-free installments with Klarna.